Preparing Your Garden for Winter

winter garden Preparing Your Garden for WinterText by Lori Broadfoot

Before setting about the task of cleaning up your garden for its long winter rest, have a good look around to remind yourself of what worked and what didn’t in the past growing season. Was the lawn a little patchy in areas and needs some aeration? Did some plants grow a little too vigorously and choke each other out? And you may want to note the success of growing a gloriously scented flower near a favourite deck chair.

Once you have a few notes and plans for next year, it’s time to begin the task of putting the garden to bed.

While harvesting garden produce you may also want to collect seeds from some easy-to-grow varieties of flowers, vegetables and herbs for planting next year. Some specimens that lend themselves to seed collection are marigolds, cornflowers, calendula, violas, nasturtiums, lettuce, radishes, peas, beans, corn, dill, cilantro, and many other herbs. For ornamental plants and herbs, cut off the flower heads whenever a plant ‘goes to seed’. Leave a few peas and beans on the stalk or vine to become overripe and dry. The seeds from melons, squash, cucumbers and tomatoes need to be cleaned of pulp before saving. Ensure all seeds are thoroughly dry before storing, by keeping them in paper bags for a couple of weeks, and then transfer to moisture tight containers or jars. Label the containers with name and date, some seeds will stay viable for years.

Not all foliage, stocks and spent flowers need to be removed before the snow flies. Clean out and cut back only the rotted or matted down foliage that may leave plants vulnerable to disease in the damp of spring. Empty dry stalks and dried flower heads will not only add interest to a snow-filled vista, they will also trap snow cover – good for insulating and moisturizing plants – and can become homes to beneficial insects like lady bugs when freezing temperatures arrive.

Even in early autumn there is still time to plant, or divide and reposition perennial plants, especially those that bloom between early spring and late June. These hardy specimens will continue to grow, although at a much slower rate, for several weeks. If it is a dry autumn be sure to hand water them well. Even though these plants may be long past flowering, they are still storing up resources for next year.

Wait till after a couple of frosts to add mulch around all perennials. This gives the plants an opportunity to feel the chill in the ground so they will be spurred into dormancy. You can toss a bunch of newly raked leaves or matured compost, at a depth of about two or three inches, around the base of each plant. This ‘winter blanket’ can be worked into the dirt, adding nutrients to the soil in the spring.

Tender perennials such as roses can be insulated with a six to eight inch layer of leaves.

Take special care to remove annual weeds from your lawn and garden now, especially the mature flower heads. Don’t compost the seed heads as they may survive the winter, so it’s safest to throw them away.

Mid-September is the time to band trees with tanglefoot to prevent canker worm infestation. The bands and the sticky bug-snagging substance can be attached to tree trunks anytime after the September long weekend, and should be removed by the May long weekend the following spring. There is also a spring cankerworm moth, so if the stickiness of the tanglefoot has been reduced over winter, more can be applied to the band in very early spring.

Keep mowing your lawn until it stops growing for the season. The grass should be trimmed a little shorter, to 1.5 inch height before winter. The snow can mat down longer grass, which may cause problems with snow mold or powdery mildew in the spring.

The trunks of young trees should be wrapped at the base with either a plastic collar or hardware cloth to prevent damage from rodents. Remember to allow for the depth of snow when positioning the barrier, and don’t wrap it too tightly.

Drain the garden hose, store indoors, and shut off the outside water tap from its source.

Clean all garden tools and wipe them with a little light oil before storing them for winter.

The final step in autumn garden maintenance will be to find a comfy quilt. This will help keep you warm when you’re indoors, perusing the seed catalogues that will arrive in the mail very shortly, and making plans for spring.

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Outdoor Plants Indoors

indoor plant Outdoor Plants IndoorsText by Lori Broadfoot

Many of the colorful annual bedding plants gardeners purchase from greenhouses and department stores in the spring can be brought indoors as houseplants in the fall. Some specimens are at their most robust growth in the autumn, and you can extend your summer gardening glory by potting a few plants and setting them on sunny windowsills indoors for the winter. Unlike perennials whose roots can withstand freezing, annuals are plants, which in our climate, wouldn’t survive the winter. Some annuals have a natural life span of a few months where they come into flower, produce seeds and die back, but others, such as geraniums, actually grow perennially in their native environments, and if they are treated to a warm winter vacation can be re-introduced to the outdoors year after year. Over-wintering plants will also eliminate the need to purchase new plants in the spring.

Select plants that are free from disease and remove any dried leaves and stems. Inspect carefully for insects, which may be harder to treat once the plant is in the close confines of an indoor environment. A gentle shower with a garden hose should shake off any lingering pests.
Gently lift the plant from the ground with a garden fork taking care not to tear too many delicate roots, but most plants can withstand a little root pruning when being transplanted.

Choose a planter that is slightly larger around than the root ball of the plant. Fill the pot partially with a rich indoor-plant soil mix. Garden soil will likely not have the nutrients or the proper drainage for indoor use, and it may also harbor pests or diseases, so it’s best to use a soil mix specifically formulated for houseplants. Shake most of the garden soil from the roots and place the plant in the centre of the pot. Scoop soil around the roots, tap the whole planter on the floor a couple of times to shake the soil down and fill in around the roots. Air pockets may fill with water and drown roots. Fill the pot to the same depth as the plant was growing in the garden, or a little deeper. If the soil is too shallow surrounding the roots, the plant may become top-heavy and uproot itself as it gets taller.

Water well, and keeping the new transplants out of the direct sun for a few days, let them acclimatize to the indoors. Some leaves may be lost, or dry out at the edges as the plant settles in after the transplant. Don’t let the soil dry out completely, but don’t over water either; the roots need to breathe.

The following are a few plants we treat as annuals, but are suited to over-wintering indoors:

Shade-loving Coleus plants are perfectly suited to indoor life. They prefer moist, well-drained soil. Prized for their multi-colored foliage, they will thrive even in low-light conditions. They will, however become spindly if their stems aren’t pinched back regularly. Snip the stems at any point just above a ‘leave set’ or pair of leaves and this will force the plant to branch out, doubling the stems and leaves.
Coleus leaves are variegated in all shades of maroon, green, yellow, red and pink. Their blooms are insignificant, but the foliage will add striking interest to any window framing a scene of snow outdoors.

While Impatiens plants, also known as balsams, may appear delicate, they are among the most popular and hardy bedding plants in the world. Their blossoms are found in shades of red, pink, mauve, orange, rose and white, and as either single or double-petalled flowers, which resemble miniature roses.
Impatiens like moist soil; the plants will droop if left to dry out, and will do best in cooler temperatures. Impatiens will drop their petals as the flowers fade, so there is no need for dead-heading (removing spent flowers). Tip pinching will encourage the plants to branch out; this is best done following a period of blossoming as the plant enters a semi-dormant stage. As the plant leafs out and regenerates itself, new flower buds will form on all of the new branches. Most varieties of Impatiens are shade-tolerant, and will flourish in even curtain-filtered sunlight.

Geraniums
Geraniums should be cut back to about one-third their original height before transplanting, snip each branch close to a leaf joint. This will encourage the plants to branch out and keep them a manageable size for windowsill life. Geraniums need as much sun as possible, a south or west-facing window is best. Don’t be too concerned if they become “leggy” – the stems become long and the leaves small – as long as the roots are healthy, geraniums will bounce back to vigorous growth with the return of strong spring sunshine.

In the spring, after a winter of window-filtered light, your plants will need to be re-adapted to full-strength sunshine. Re-introduce your plants to the outdoor garden once the air has warmed by setting the pots in a shady, protected area for a few hours a day and bringing them back indoors every night. Gradually increase the time and intensity of the sun they receive, and once all danger of frost has past they can be replanted in the garden as you would newly purchased annuals.

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Hairstyles for Her

watermark Hairstyles for HerHairstyles have changed a lot over the years, as they always do. Look back at old yearbooks or TV shows to see just how fashion dictated styles were – everyone wore the same look whether it suited them or not. The best thing about recent trends however is that instead of focusing on one or two styles, the best hairstyle today is one that is personal and suits you and your look.

For short hair variations on the bob are common, but not a one-style bob as in the past.  Bob cuts now vary from classic looks to more layered creations for finer hair and angles that are longer at the front for more interest and framing of the face.  Bangs may or may not feature in depending on your preference and what your stylist may recommend.  Color and highlights are a great way to make a simple bob outstanding and these days virtually any color goes.

For curly hair, whether short or long, the stress is on curls that are loose and thick rather than tight.  No one wants to go back to that mock-afro look of the 1970s, so curls now are softer and more natural looking.  The emphasis is on styling for definition rather than control.  Long and loose, short and wavy, whatever your curl you can let it do its own thing and be free.  Curly hair or straight, a light tousled look is preferable to something too controlled or fixed.  Wash and wear styles are a must and for once curly hair has the advantage there.

Long hair is back in style but again with variations.  Depending on your face, style and needs long hair can be different things to different people.  One thing that isn’t as common, unless it perfectly suits you of course, is the single layer as long as it can be look that was common a decade or so ago.  Look for layers now to add depth and variety.  Longer layers will still allow for those casual pony tails and braids but give you more texture on days when your wear your hair down.  Up-does-whether professional or casual-are great for evenings out or for work, and are one reason to have longer hair.

Keep an eye on the new hair accessories that come out. They can give you ideas for new styles and looks for your short or long hair, for business or fun casual days.

If you aren’t sure if your look needs updating, check with your stylist or try someone new.  Many salons now will give free consultation to make suggestions and offer alternatives.  In some cases they may even ask questions about your work and lifestyle so they’re sure to make the perfect recommendation to meet your specific needs. And if you do make a change and aren’t happy with the end result, never forget it’s hair that will grow back and now you’ve tried something and don’t have to try it again.

Remember today’s best style is whatever looks best on you.  If you find a look you like you can feel comfortable keeping it knowing it won’t soon be out of date.

Text by Heather Seftel-Kirk

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Potato Crostini With Caramelized Bacon

Toss first 3 ingredients together in a bowl, then spread evenly on a baking sheet. Bake in a 400ºF (205ºC) oven for about 25 minutes until potatoes are tender. Arrange potatoes, trimmed-side down, on a serving plate. Reduce oven temperature to 350ºF (175ºC).

Combine brown sugar and first amount of chilies. Coat bacon slices with the brown sugar mixture. Arrange on a wire rack set in a foil-lined baking sheet. Bake for about 25 minutes
until browned and glazed. Let stand for 10 minutes before finely chopping bacon.
Combine remaining 4 ingredients and bacon. Spoon onto potatoes. Makes 16 potato crostini.

GARNISH
sprigs of parsley

Ingredients

Baby potatoes, ends trimmed and cut in                           8                      8
half crosswise
Olive oil                                                                               1 tbsp.            15 mL
Salt                                                                                      1/4 tsp.           1 mL
Brown sugar, packed                                                           1/2 cup           125 mL
Dried crushed chilies                                                           1 tsp.               5 mL
Bacon slices                                                                         10                    10
Sour cream                                                                           1/4 cup           60 mL
Cream cheese, softened                                                       2 tbsp.            30 mL
Dijon mustard                                                                      1/2 tsp.           2 mL
Dried crushed chilies                                                           1/4 tsp.           1 mL

1 potato crostini: 135 Calories; 3.9 g Total Fat (1.7 g Mono, 0.4 g Poly,  1.5 g Sat); 8 mg Cholesterol;
22 g Carbohydrate; 2 g Fibre; 4 g Protein; 145 mg Sodium

Reprinted from Pratical Gourmet, Small Plates for Sharing Copyright Company’s Coming Publishing Limited www.companyscoming.com

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Wood Flooring Options

wood floors1 Wood Flooring OptionsFloors are the most used element of our home, yet they get the least consideration.

But if you are moving into a new home or looking to renovate your current space, it suddenly becomes a very important factor.

Graham Hawryluk, of Meticulous Wood Flooring Inc. has been in the flooring business for about 7 years now and can tell you everything you need to know about wood flooring.

For example, there are 3 types of hardwood – 3/4″ solid, engineered and floating engineered.  The solid is susceptible to moisture change, engineered can stand up in moist environments like basements and floating engineered holds up even better than the former.

It turns out that wood is a natural product, so it takes on and lets out moisture – it is constantly moving – so you want to make sure that you choose the right wood for your environment.

The most popular choices are stained red oak, maple and yellow birch that are available in virtually any color.  But Graham’s company carries many exotic species like Purple heart and Canary Wood that are brightly colored, though not as a result of any stain.  Tiger wood, for example, changes from orange to deep red over time.  There are over 70 species and 120 colors to choose from – there is more than just maple and oak, for sure.

Hardwood continues to be the choice for floor covering as it is easy to maintain, especially in high traffic areas.  So if you have laminate, carpet or linoleum that you want to replace, Meticulous Wood Flooring Inc. can do that for you or they can come in and refinish your existing hardwood, thereby as Graham says, “upping the value of your home without having to fork over money for materials and save the environment in the process.”

The environment is extremely important to the company.  During the refinishing process, they use a Bona Kemi Atomic Dust Containment System, which is Greenguard Certified.  This eliminates airborne dust and fumes and practically eliminates the usual stresses and hassles that accompany renovations and refinishings.

With regards to refinishing, Graham only uses waterborne hardwood finishes that are gymnasium grade.  He says, “They are extremely durable and will outperform any Urethane based finish.  These finishes have low VOC levels, they are better for the environment and have a very mild odor.  Traditional Urethanes are extremely volatile and toxic with an odor that typically lingers for months after application.”

Any space or room can be done – living room, den, bedroom, halls, etc. – no square footage is too small or too big.  The company often tackles spaces of 10,000 square feet!

Even basements can be done – the floating engineered product is great in this environment.  Over 100,000 square feet of it has been sold and not a single complaint!

Ultimately, it’s about you the customer being able to make an informed decision and being happy with the look and quality of the wood flooring you buy.

For more information www.oneofakindfloors.com

Text by Stephanie Dickison

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