Rub a Dub – Scrub a Tub

Text by P. Gerbrandt

Water’s soothing effects are widely recognized, and the growing popularity of home hot tubs and jetted bathtubs gives evidence to our reliance upon such fixtures to help banish the tensions of our work-a-day world. After strenuous exercise or vigorous gardening, aches and pains can be eased by soaking in a jetted tub or by relaxing in the larger hot tub. But, as with all other appliances and conveniences, regular maintenance and proper care go a long way to ensuring that our investment will function satisfactorily.

We know that our shower stalls and ordinary bathtubs need regular, thorough cleaning. Soap scum and mildew, dirt and the accumulation of body oils and sloughed off skin cells which, though sometimes unseen, combine to call for effective scrubbing. Those same miniscule deposits, with the addition of system residue from plumbing pipes, pumps and circulation systems are not beneficial to jetted tubs.

People living in hard water areas, particularly where rust serves as a relentless reminder of that scourge, need all the help they can get to combat the mineral deposits. Even with the use of water softeners and rust-inhibitors, there is need for vigilance.

Failure to clean these fixtures effectively restricts the flow of both air and water, and can lead to pump burn out. The resulting cost and annoyance can translate to more stress.

Seeing the orangey tinge on recessed areas of the jets, despite my attempts to eradicate the traces of rust, made me cringe to think what might lurk in hidden recesses. The thought was anything but soothing. As a regular user of IronOut, I began to wonder if that product might be helpful to purge the inner workings of the soaker tub.

I decided to do a little research before experimenting. A web search quickly located the manufacturer’s home page, and within a very short time I had a response to my question. Do not use IronOut in jetted tubs or hot tubs!

Fortunately, Summit Brands, the manufacturer of IronOut also markets a product specifically formulated for our wonderful jetted tubs.

WhirlOut is readily available from plumbing and building supply centres at a reasonable price. It can safely be used on fiberglass, acrylic and enamel surfaces and will not damage chrome. Regular use even prevents buildup of those nasty gremlins that, united in resistance, appear as stains.

Using WhirlOut with warm water boosts its effectiveness. It’s a good idea to use this product after each use or if your spa or tub has been inactive for a while. Clearly stated on the package is the warning that WhirlOut is not to be used while bathing.

However, after you’ve used your tub, clean it. Make sure the water level is at least two inches above the suction intake and the highest jet. If your unit has an adjustable air and volume control, choose the medium setting.

For your whirlpool or jetted tub:
-after use, and before draining the tub, turn on the circulation pump
-add 4 capfuls of WhirlOut near the suction intake
-allow water to circulate for 3-4 minutes
-drain tub, then refill and circulate another minute to rinse
-drain tub
Repeat as necessary.

If you want to clean your hot tub or spa:
-use WhirlOut only before draining unit
-follow instructions above, but use the entire 1.5 lb. (680 g) container, and set circulation timer for 10 minutes

The pump, pipes and surfaces of your whirlpool, spa, jetted tub or hot tub will be clean.

Best of all, WhirlOut requires no scrubbing. Now, that’s a stress buster!

Re-mote starts your engines….

Text by Heather Armstrong

You’ve slept in, you’re already late for work, there’s no time to go out and start the car, and it’s cold, very cold. What’s missing from this picture? Besides the obvious answer of a better alarm clock, it could be a remote starter.

Remote starters can mean less wear and tear on your vehicle and a warmer or cooler vehicle interior when it’s time to set off on your journey.

When remote starters were first introduced you might have been able to install the system yourself or with the help of a handy relative or neighbor. However, newer vehicles, which feature complex computerized electronics and built-in anti-theft devices, require professional installation. Splicing into the wrong wire could not only blow electronic components damaging the vehicle but also put your safety at risk if incorrect wiring compromises the safe running of the vehicle.

If you are purchasing a new vehicle and would like a remote starting system you may want to consider having it factory installed.

For older vehicles or after-market installations, if your trusted mechanic isn’t interested in the job (mine wasn’t – he says he has un-installed lots of systems just to get a vehicle working), he or she can point you in the right direction. The key is to find authorized installers of the remote system you are interested in purchasing. Names like Astrostart, Compustart and the more familiar Command Start systems can generally be found in the audio electronics section of major electronics stores. Ask to talk to a specialist or look up information on-line about the variety of systems available. You will note that warranties are usually void if systems aren’t installed by authorized dealers.

Today’s remote starter systems range in cost from $200 for a system requiring basic installation to $1,000 for a more complex installation. The more complex the system and vehicle: the higher the price. At the high end of the price range are two-way paging systems that report back to you when your vehicle is running. These systems are rated for up to 5,000 feet, but, generally provide a range of 2-3,000 feet if there are any obstacles between the remote and the vehicle. Vehicles that are already equipped with anti-theft features, such as the Manitoba Public Insurance Immobilizer, have to be interfaced with special chips or accessory modules that allow the remote starter to work without compromising the vehicle’s security system.

Today’s remote starting systems have security and safety features built in. Anyone entering the vehicle must insert the ignition key and turn the ignition to on, or the engine shuts off as soon as they touch the brake or if the engine revs over 3,000 RPM. Most systems will also shut down the engine if the hood is opened and after a selected run time, generally 15 minutes, is reached. A master on/off switch can be used to disable the system when your vehicle needs to be serviced. Even if someone gains control of your remote, they can’t operate the vehicle unless they also have the key. Once a new remote is programmed into the system, the old remote can no longer be used to start or unlock the vehicle.

The main considerations when choosing the best option for your vehicle are: the range or distance you will need to start your vehicle from and whether the vehicle already includes an anti-theft system.

Other features to consider include: a user controlled cold start timer, programmable run times, anti-grind (i.e. you can’t accidentally grind the motor when you insert the key after the vehicle has been remote started), keyless entry, driver door priority (just the driver door opens when keyless entry is used), 2 way paging, an included security system, or, vehicle security interface options to ensure the continued safe operation of vehicles already equipped with security features.

If you start having problems with a remote system that worked fine previously, manufacturers usually have trouble shooting advice included in instruction manuals or on-line.

For example, if your vehicle no longer responds when you depress the remote button (engine cranking or signal light flashing) verify that the remote is actively sending a start signal (LED flashing). If the LED is no longer flashing, try changing the batteries in the remote. If the remote LED is flashing make certain that the wire leading to the receiver (antenna) is in good working order. Usually when a system no longer responds it is because of either a remote or receiver problem. If both test as functioning then there could be a more serious problem that will require servicing by an authorized installer. Burnt out fuses or newly installed anti-theft features that are being improperly bypassed are other common problems. The best and safest advice is to contact an authorized installer.

Air Conditioner Maintenance

Text by Blair Korchinski

Air conditioning is one modern convenience that many people find difficult, if not impossible to do without. Like any other mechanical system in your home, a little maintenance will go a long way to ensuring a longer life for your air conditioning system. A proper maintenance schedule can save you money on your energy bill and ensure proper operation of your system so that your house is comfortable during the hot months of summer.

Weekly

As part of your regular house cleaning, you should vacuum all registers and cold air return vents on a weekly basis. This will help to prevent your air conditioning system from circulating dust and allergens around your home.

Monthly

You should check your condensation tube at least once a month to ensure it is draining properly. A blocked tube can cause your entire system to malfunction if it backs up onto electronic components. A quick visual inspection can save a lot of future costs.

Clean or change your filter once a month. Some filters can be vacuumed, while others require replacement. Check your manual to find out which type your air conditioner has.

Vacuum all vents. If you have central air conditioning, it will move air through your heating system. Remove registers and vent covers and vacuum inside them. This will reduce the amount of dust circulating in your house and increase the efficiency of your air conditioning unit.

Trim any grass or other vegetation from around the exterior portion of your air conditioner. This should be done in such a fashion that grass clippings are not allowed to enter the unit.

A visual inspection and general cleaning should also take place once a month. Vacuum any dirt off of the coil cover and from around the unit. Remove any debris from the cooling coils. Check for wet or damp spots on the floor or ground that could indicate a leak.

Yearly

These steps should be carried out before the beginning of the air conditioning season. If your air conditioner is in use more than six months of the year, these steps should be taken every six months.

At least once a year, you should closely inspect all tubes, pipes, and fittings for leaks. Leaks allow the fluid to escape from your air conditioner. This not only damages the environment, but will cost you money as your unit will need to be recharged more often.

Clean the coils thoroughly. On most units, this is achieved by turning the power to the air conditioning off, removing any access covers and gently spraying the coils with a garden hose. Use an air conditioner cleaning product to remove any dirt that remains.
It is important that you check your manual for cleaning procedures specific to your machine, and follow the instructions of any cleaning products carefully.

Every Two Years

Hire a professional technician to give your air conditioner a tune-up. He should check the refrigerant level and recharge your unit if necessary, provide lubrication if needed, clean all coils and cooling fins thoroughly, check the air-flow over the coils, clean out all drains, replace any worn or defective parts, and provide a good overall cleaning. The technician should also be able to provide you with a list of things that need attention or may need attention in the future.

Have your ducts cleaned by a professional. Having your ducts cleaned will prevent dust and allergens from circulating around your home. It will also help to ensure that your air conditioning system operates as efficiently as possible.

A clean, well-maintained air conditioner should give you about fifteen years of trouble-free service. By following a maintenance schedule you ensure that you are getting the maximum efficiency from your unit and extend its working life as long as possible. Maintenance is relatively simple to do and takes very little time. It helps to increase your comfort level and avoid costly repairs.

Doghouse Project

 Text by Blair Korchinski

Materials:

1- 4″x4″x8′ pressure treated post

1- 4′x8′x3/4″ construction grade plywood

2-4′x8′x7/16″ OSB or plywood sheathing

8- 2″x4″ construction studs

2- 4′x8′ extruded polystyrene insulation

1- large pet door

Asphalt shingles

Nails

 

Tools:

Circular saw

Framing square

Measuring tape

Spirit level

Hammer

Cordless drill

 

In this case we’ll build a large doghouse for a large dog. The outside dimensions will be 32″x32″. The walls, roof, and floor will be insulated. The entrance will be a self-sealing pet door.

 

Step 1. Building the floor.

 Cut two sections of 4×4 post each 32″ long.

 Cut a piece of plywood 32″ wide and 32″ long.

 Place the 4×4s flush with the edge of the plywood and attach the plywood to the 4×4s using nails.

 Measure and cut 2×4 to fit around the outside of the plywood. Nail in place on edge. Place one additional piece of 2×4 16″ from the front of the doghouse.

 Place a double thickness of insulation in the space between the 2×4s, then measure and cut plywood to fit over the top of the 2×4s. Attach the plywood with nails.

 

 Step 2. Building the side and back walls.

 Measure and cut two 32″ 2×4s for each wall. These will be your top and bottom plates. Mark the plates on 16″ centres.

 Cut three 27-1/2″ 2×4 pieces for studs. Attach the studs to the top and bottom plate.

 Attach each wall to the floor of the doghouse.

 Step 3. Building the front wall.

 Check the dimensions of the rough opening required for the pet door. Instead of 16″ centres with one stud in the centre of the wall, you will require one stud on each side of the pet door.

 Attach the front wall to the floor of the doghouse.

 

Step 4. Attaching the double top plate.

 Use a spirit level to ensure your walls are plumb. Measure, cut, and attach a second top plate so that it connects the walls together at the top.

 

Step 5.

 Measure, cut and install ceiling joists running from one sidewall to the other.

 

Step 6.

 Measure and cut sheathing to fit the exterior of the walls, including the ceiling joists. Attach with nails. Attach sheathing to the bottom of the ceiling joists from inside the doghouse.

 Place insulation between studs, including ceiling joists.

 Measure and cut sheathing to fit interior walls. Attach with nails.

  

Step 7. The roof

 

Measure and cut a piece of 2×4 32″ long. This will be your ridge board. Temporarily support it so that it reaches from the centre of the front wall to the centre of the back wall at the desired height.

 Determine the angle to cut your rafters by scribing a 2×4 along the ridge board. Cut the first rafter along the scribed lines, then use it as a pattern for the remaining rafters.

 Install the rafters by nailing them to the ridge board and to the top of the walls.

 Cut and install sheathing on the roof. Install shingles in the usual way.

 

Step 8.

Install the pet door as per the instructions that come with the unit. Since the installation of pet doors varies with the make and model, it is important that you follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

If you choose to install trim and siding, do so in the usual way for the materials you are using.

How to care for your Poinsettia

Text by Monique Rampton

This popular Christmas plant can be enjoyed for many years if it is given the proper care.
Here are a few “easy to follow” tips:
Place the plant in a draft-free area where it gets sun for half of the day. The poinsettia prefers cooler nights and warmer days.
Let the soil dry out a bit between watering, and don’t fertilize.
Re-pot and cut back the faded bracts in summer.
How do you get your plant to bloom again for Christmas?
Starting around September 21 until the end of October, give your plant 9-10 hours of bright, indirect or sunny light, followed by 14-15 hours of complete darkness (Hint: to make it easy, cover it up at 5 p.m., uncover at 7-8 a.m. the next morning)
After this routine, treat your plant like usual and it should look lovely for Christmas!