Lifestyle Pets

Text by Sheila Guenther

I have heard much of lifestyle pets lately. To me lifestyle pets means an animal that fits into your home, which compliments your life. But to many, a lifestyle pet means something different. To some a lifestyle pet is a disposable commodity, something you keep until you no longer have need of it. You have seen the commercials where a guy gets a dog so he can meet women. Has anyone thought of where that dog goes once he has met her or if the ploy does not work? Some stay as treasured pets and some are discarded because of the fact that they require effort and time and money to care for, it is not what the person bargained for. That is not a lifestyle pet, but a selfish act.

To determine if your lifestyle meshes with keeping a pet, you have to ask yourself a few questions:
Why do I want a pet?
How much time will I have available to spend training and caring for my pet?
What kind of pet can I afford?
Can I afford the upkeep of a pet?

Can you fit a pet into your lifestyle? This all depends on what kind of animal you want. Cats are low maintenance in regards to attention. While you are there they want your attention; when you are gone they are happy to sleep on your bed all day. They do not eat 8 cups of food a day or need to be taken for walks. You clean their litter box, pet them and cuddle them and brush them out. It is perfect for the single person.

Dogs on the other hand require more attention, training, and food. You cannot leave a dog in the house for extended periods without coming home to a mess. So this means someone either has to be home during the day or come home periodically during the day to care for it. The bottom line is a dog needs more attention. Dogs require more in regards to food as well, the bigger the dog the bigger the food bill. Some require 8 cups a day.

Fish are a wonderful pet to have, but there is not much in the way of interaction with them; you feed them and they come to the surface. They do not play with you or want to be cuddled; they are just there swimming around. It is great if you don’t have the time to devote to a pet that needs attention. But even fish are high maintenance; you have to clean their tank at the least once a week. A fishbowl requires even more effort. Fish are initially more expensive to get started with and the more money you spend on set up, the less work you have to do. If you spend the big bucks at the beginning, get a good filter and fish whose sole purpose and joy in life is to clean the rocks and glass, commonly called algae eaters, you will reduce the amount of work you have to do as your equipment will do it for you. You still must do your water change; 1/3 of your tank must be changed on a regular basis, plus add chemicals. They are really interesting to watch. I used to spend a long time just sitting and watching them. It was quite relaxing. A good rule of thumb for a fish tank is one-inch of fish for every gallon of tank, meaning a ten-gallon tank will support ten one inch fish comfortably.

Reptiles are interesting pets to have as well, but again it is expensive. Skinks, Iguanas and snakes all require a large space, preferably a large aquarium (some with or without water), so they may roam about their enclosures. Hot rocks so they can stay warm, heaters to keep the rest of the enclosure warm and branches may or not be added depending on the reptile. Hiding places should be built. They all add up to a lot of money, but the uniqueness of having a reptile pays for itself. A reptile’s diet varies with species, from eating crickets, dog food and fruit to mice, all of which are easily obtained from a pet store.

Birds are great as pets; they are fun to be with and fairly easy to train. The smaller the bird the less it costs to feed. When you start getting into parrots and other larger more exotic birds your costs go up substantially; the cage cost alone deters many from purchasing a large bird. But you can interact with a bird and many birds live long lives especially parrots which have long life spans and are often put in people’s wills as they will outlive their owners. Parrots require a lot of interaction, with three or more hours out of their cage in order for them to not develop neurotic behaviors. They need toys to amuse them, and toys that will challenge them to think. They are very smart animals and quickly figure out how to break out of their cages, thus requiring some attention on keeping them locked up safely.

You can spend as little or as much as you want when it comes to a pet; it all depends on your lifestyle and what you can afford or cannot afford. Remember you are getting something that is alive, not a throw away toy, so some honest assessment of your wants and needs will pay off in the end.

Puppy training 101

Text by Sheila Guenther

Challenges come to us in many disguises: some we choose, some we don’t. A recent challenge I took up was getting a new pup. I had not had a pup in 7 years and realized despite my training and knowledge that I had forgotten a lot. In the end my pup has turned out to be a wonderful joy to have around, well socialized, and well behaved. I still have to remind myself that he is a pup and I have to exercise patience, but all in all, it is going well.

I took him all over the place after his initial quarantine period was over and after he was fully immunized. He came to work with me; I am a groomer so it was not a problem taking him with me. I realize many cannot do this, but I believe in thoroughly educating a dog to his surroundings, and introducing him to things early on, so later they do not become a problem.

While there, he learned many commands, LEAVE, being one command. He had to learn to leave the other dogs alone when I took them out of the crates. His first response was that he wanted to play with the big puppy, but the other dogs do not necessarily want to play with him, and could have very well turned and tried to bite him, giving him a negative experience.

As he made the initial run to help me get them out of the crate, (he is so helpful) I put my hand out in front of his face and said LEAVE. Every time he tried to get around my hand I repeated the command, with a gentle shove. He gave in, and within a few minutes realized this was something he was not to do. It took a few visits but he now understands he is not to approach another dog when I take it out of a crate.

Why did I teach him this command? For two reasons, the first one being that I needed him to be obedient to me in case he got near something he was not suppose to touch, like a shoe, or glove. It is a good command for your pup to know. The second reason being, that it may one day save his life. We all drop things on the floor, the pup makes a mad dash for the item grabs it, and swallows it no matter how many times you yell, “No”. If you had taught him the leave command he would not advance to grab the forbidden article.

Another useful, lifesaving command is DROP IT! If puppy grabs something he is not to have DROP IT, will let him know it is a bad thing for him to have and not one of his toys, and he will drop it on command. You do not have to yell at your dog; a quiet FIRM command is all that is necessary. This command is also great when teaching him to play fetch, Drop it should always be said when he is returning you the article, be it ball or stuffy toy.

Training your new pup can be a lot of fun. There is so much a person can say on it, but I shall leave that for another time. Take care and enjoy your new precious bundle of love.

Lifestyle Pets

Text by Sheila Guenther

Part two of lifestyle pets will focus on what animal fits in with where you live. Whether you live in an apartment, a condo, on a farm, or own your own home, you will have to consider what kind of animal fits in with your accommodations. Many apartments and condos have ‘no pet’ rules, but they generally do not include fish. So if you are living in an apartment then you would go with something smaller like a fish tank, provided you are careful and do not let the whole thing come crashing down on your floor. If that happens you risk facing the wrath of the apartment manager. I must admit I struggle with the idea that someone can tell you what you can or cannot have in regards to pets in an owned condo, but the rules are set out when you buy, so either abide by them or find another place.

If you own your own home there is generally no one to say what you can or cannot have; this is where common sense comes in. You have to work out how much time you have to give to your pet, how big it is…etc. If you have a small yard and small house, then a 150 pound mastiff would not be the dog for you. They need room to move around since their long tails tend to whip things and they cut themselves. Are you home enough to look after it, give it the attention it needs, or the training that is necessary? If not then maybe you need a cat, or a small dog like a Cocker Spaniel or a Shih Tzu. Please do not think I am recommending these dogs as better than other ones, they just came to my mind while writing. As far as I am concerned all dogs can be great pets; it is the owners who generally need more guidance in training them to be the wonderful pets they can be.

If you are on a farm, then the role of your dog changes and it becomes a part of the workings of the farm, not just a pet any longer. A farm dog has a dual role as protector and pet. The dog that warns you when strangers enter your property also alerts you to skunks, or chases them away. Traditionally a farm dog doesn’t live inside the house, but will have its own accommodations outside. This is not cruel; it is what is best for the dog, and helps him to perform his job. Is the dog neglected? No! On the contrary, it generally goes with their owners everywhere — to the field, checking the cows, making its master’s job much easier.

Cats also play an important role on a farm; they protect and keep the mouse population under control. Often farm cats are not spayed because one cat alone will not be able to do the job, whereas the dog may be spayed or neutered so it is not distracted by things in spring, and wandering off to neighbouring farms. Generally a farm dog will be of the bigger variety, i.e. Border collies, which need to work, or suffer if it does not get the exercise it needs. German Shepherds are also working dogs and can herd with the best of them. These are both thinking dogs, and need roles to play, it is what they were bred for.

Fish are of no real value to a farm, in regards to the workings of it. Can a fish attack a strange animal that has invaded the yard? A fish is nothing more than a pet, plain and simple, same with a budgie, a parrot, or any other exotic pet. A person has to look at the differences in roles an animal can play in their lives, working animals and pets. Both are loved and cared for, both have roles to play. The farm animal works, protects and loves; the house pet can play the same role, except it is done within the house, as opposed to living outside.

In the end a person has to consider what the animal was particularly bred for. Working dogs work, Sporting dogs hunt, Terriers dig and hunt mice and skunks. In fact any vermin that comes into the yard will fall prey to a terrier. To take these dogs and not give them something to do will often create problems within a home, usually a destructive personality. They are active animals and must have their minds stimulated. On the other hand try to make a Maltese or a Shih-Tzu a herding dog, while they may be able to perform some parts of farm life they are not suited to the rugged lifestyle that would be required, and their coats would never hold up, it would be a matted mess in a few days.

More dogs end up in the pound due to the fact that their owners did not think things through enough before buying the animal, and end up thinking the animal was just bad to begin with. Did you know that dog movie trainers often go to pounds in search of dogs that have been misunderstood? What had been taken for brainless often times turned out to be just a frustrated dog that was given nothing to do and turned destructive. These dogs needed to do something, and often once a trainer gets them they turn out to be extraordinary, wonderful performers, smart and willing to please.

Whatever choice you make in a pet, research it well, and learn what the breed was bred to do. Ask yourself, can I deal with this; will I be able to spend the necessary time with it? Success is in your hands; you will make or break the animal you choose, so choose carefully.

Doghouse Project

 Text by Blair Korchinski

Materials:

1- 4″x4″x8′ pressure treated post

1- 4′x8′x3/4″ construction grade plywood

2-4′x8′x7/16″ OSB or plywood sheathing

8- 2″x4″ construction studs

2- 4′x8′ extruded polystyrene insulation

1- large pet door

Asphalt shingles

Nails

 

Tools:

Circular saw

Framing square

Measuring tape

Spirit level

Hammer

Cordless drill

 

In this case we’ll build a large doghouse for a large dog. The outside dimensions will be 32″x32″. The walls, roof, and floor will be insulated. The entrance will be a self-sealing pet door.

 

Step 1. Building the floor.

 Cut two sections of 4×4 post each 32″ long.

 Cut a piece of plywood 32″ wide and 32″ long.

 Place the 4×4s flush with the edge of the plywood and attach the plywood to the 4×4s using nails.

 Measure and cut 2×4 to fit around the outside of the plywood. Nail in place on edge. Place one additional piece of 2×4 16″ from the front of the doghouse.

 Place a double thickness of insulation in the space between the 2×4s, then measure and cut plywood to fit over the top of the 2×4s. Attach the plywood with nails.

 

 Step 2. Building the side and back walls.

 Measure and cut two 32″ 2×4s for each wall. These will be your top and bottom plates. Mark the plates on 16″ centres.

 Cut three 27-1/2″ 2×4 pieces for studs. Attach the studs to the top and bottom plate.

 Attach each wall to the floor of the doghouse.

 Step 3. Building the front wall.

 Check the dimensions of the rough opening required for the pet door. Instead of 16″ centres with one stud in the centre of the wall, you will require one stud on each side of the pet door.

 Attach the front wall to the floor of the doghouse.

 

Step 4. Attaching the double top plate.

 Use a spirit level to ensure your walls are plumb. Measure, cut, and attach a second top plate so that it connects the walls together at the top.

 

Step 5.

 Measure, cut and install ceiling joists running from one sidewall to the other.

 

Step 6.

 Measure and cut sheathing to fit the exterior of the walls, including the ceiling joists. Attach with nails. Attach sheathing to the bottom of the ceiling joists from inside the doghouse.

 Place insulation between studs, including ceiling joists.

 Measure and cut sheathing to fit interior walls. Attach with nails.

  

Step 7. The roof

 

Measure and cut a piece of 2×4 32″ long. This will be your ridge board. Temporarily support it so that it reaches from the centre of the front wall to the centre of the back wall at the desired height.

 Determine the angle to cut your rafters by scribing a 2×4 along the ridge board. Cut the first rafter along the scribed lines, then use it as a pattern for the remaining rafters.

 Install the rafters by nailing them to the ridge board and to the top of the walls.

 Cut and install sheathing on the roof. Install shingles in the usual way.

 

Step 8.

Install the pet door as per the instructions that come with the unit. Since the installation of pet doors varies with the make and model, it is important that you follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

If you choose to install trim and siding, do so in the usual way for the materials you are using.

Horse Bound – Barn Safety at Home

Text by Judy Silva

There are so many aspects of barn safety that it would be impossible to address them all in one article. So, we are going to focus on the following:

Basic Everyday Safety Measures

This article is for anyone who has horses at home, whether you are new to the world of horsemanship or have had horses for several years. We can all learn something from each other. I have been to many horse stables across western Canada over the last 30 years and have observed accidents and incidents that could have been avoided. Although, having said this, even if all safety measures possible are implemented every moment, there is always risk when we are around animals.

Install the Stall

Let’s start with the inside of the barn, specifically, the stall. To simplify things, the following is a list of items or scenarios to avoid. Please keep in mind this is not a complete list as there are so many things and scenarios, but these are common things and scenarios to avoid.

Check for objects sticking out of the walls such as nails, wood slivers, screws, bolts, etc.
Check the door for the same and any gaps which a small horse or foal or child could get body parts caught in.
Keep it clear of barn tools and debris such as forks, shovels, hammers, screwdrivers, brooms, twine, rope, wire, nails etc.
Check for loose boards, flooring, lighting, etc.
Make sure lighting is not accessible by the horse to the point if a horse rears, its head will not hit the light. If possible, sunken fluorescent lights properly installed for the recommended safety procedures can be an alternative. If not, consider putting a protective steel wire barrier around the light, to protect it from being broken, but leaving it still accessible to change the bulb or for maintenance.
I have seen horses get their legs caught in hay nets. I would avoid hay nets altogether if possible. If not, consider hanging them so the hay will hang at the same level as withers on your horse.
Keep it clean and neat. Clean manure and urine in the morning and allow it to air out all day, then refresh bedding at evening chore time.
Make sure when the horse is alone in the stall that all doors and rear tail chains (tie stalls) are completely latched.
Make sure a latch is not accessible by the horse. There are many smart horses that can undo latches for stalls and gates. If necessary, consider putting a snap of some kind to add extra security to it.
Check the stalls and entire barn inside and out regularly for defects or maintenance work needed.
Make sure water pails are clean of wet feed and mildew. Give horse fresh water as often as possible. They should have access to clean, safe water at all times in a safe manner.

Inside the barn

Make sure aisle is swept clean
Clear the barn of debris, tools and equipment. Put them away out of the reach of horses and children.
Keep your barn organized. A place for everything and everything in its place.
Keep wires up high, away out of the reach of horses, ladders etc.
Never ride, mount or dismount a horse in a barn.
Keep barn clean of dust and spider webs; these can act as flint for fire.
Having both a human and equine first aid kit in a tack room mounted on a wall or in a enclosed bin that is clearly labeled is important, too.
Make sure radios and their cords are away from moisture, not hanging around or accessible by horses or people.
In the winter, make sure the entrance is cleared of snow regularly. Shovel it just as you would your sidewalk. Salt and sand it to avoid slipping accidents for both people and horses.
When the horses’ hooves are packed with snow, upon entering the barn and closing the door, you could ground tie (if they are trained to do this) or have someone hold them, so you can clean out the packed snow to avoid them slipping and pulling a tendon or something.
Make sure the barn is properly ventilated. This can not only be a health issue, but also a safety issue in order to control heat and moisture build up.
Make sure doors to feed room, wash bays, tack rooms are closed when bringing horses in and out of a barn.
Make sure feed is in a separate area inaccessible by horses to prevent them eating too much and getting colic or foundering
Make sure halters, lead lines, lunge lines, blankets etc. are always put away out of a horse’s reach when not in use.
Bug and mosquito control can also be a safety factor when considering West Nile Virus, and a horse needs relief in order to rest. Consider screens for the barn doors for both circulation and to keep the bugs out.
Make sure lights are always off when the barn is not in use by people.
If you have young colts or stallions, you want to make sure they are not near any mares or fillies. Typically, they should be in box stall that has grills so they can not stick their heads or necks out to other horses. Make sure the walls are very high as well. They should be high enough so they cannot rear up to sniff the horse on the other side.

Visitors

When neighbors, friends, family or people in general, especially children come to visit, some ground rules are necessary to communicate to them. Consider the following:

For children
Their age and level of understanding rules
Should they be held in their parents’ arms?
Are they old enough to understand rules?
Are you OK with strollers around horses? Or would you rather the babies be held in their parents’ arms?

Have a plan ready
Where are your visitors going to stand?
How are you going to bring the horse in?
Are your horses older and very quiet? Are they young and somewhat unpredictable? What is the size of your horse?
Explain how to approach the horse from the side by the shoulder, not from behind or directly in front of the horse.
When the people are done petting the horse, are you going ask them to leave and then put the horse away? This may depend on the layout of your barn.